Juliet II

Justin and Miles riding Juliet

History, A Tale of Two Continents

The Juliet II is a beginner’s locomotive designed by LBSC or Lillian “Curly” Lawrence (see Who Was LBSC by MCSME – Mid Cheshire Society Of Model Engineers for more information). The original Juliet design was published in the Model Engineer Magazine in 1946-47 (Vol. 95-97) and revised as Juliet II with Baker Valves.

She was constructed with the lathe and other tools and parts from Reeves in the 1970’s by Norman Lubynski (my grandfather, born 1905) in Cape Town, South Africa. He was introduced to the hobby by an engineer named Jimmy Scott in Rondebosch who built the boiler and was his “guru”.

Unfortunately, Jimmy and two other members of the model engineering club in Cape Town were killed in a head-on collision enroute to a steam meet. The Juliet II was put on a shelf where she stayed for many years until hipped to Canada following my grandfather’s death in 1996.

She came into my possession in 2003 after traveling more than 13,000 km but remained unused until we discovered the live steam hobby at the Komoka Railway Museum in 2015.

A Second Chance At The KRM

Upon discovering the Komoka Railway Museum in 2015, my son became a major fan of the railways. In 2016 we were able to see live-steam for the first time when Ed Spencer was running his two trains: a CBNR diesel-electric and Petunia a steam locomotive.

In 2018 after reaching out to Ed the Juliet II was refurbished. She had her first run in May.

She has been given a second chance to do what she loves, to entertain this and future generations of train fans.

Come take a ride and enjoy!

Owner: Justin Marshall



  • 0-4-0 Steam Locomotive
  • 3.5″ Gauge Track
  • Baker Valve’s

Operating “Juliet”

Courtesy of the Model Engineering Vol 97, Issue 2417, September 18, 1947

     Fill the boiler through the safety-valve bush until the glass is a little over half full. Oil every moving part with machine oil, and fill the cylinder lubricator with cylinder oil of “superheater grade.” Put the auxiliary blower in position. To start the fire, either use charcoal in knobs about the size of filbert nuts, or small wood chips. Put some in a tin lid, wet them with paraffin, shovel enough into the firebox to cover the bars, start the blower going (get somebody to pump for you, if using a tyre pump) and throw a lighted match into the firebox. As soon as the fuel catches alight all over, throw in some more; wait until the whole lot glows red before adding coal. There should be enough steam to work the engine’s own blower in about four minutes, when the auxiliary can be dispensed with. As soon as about 50lb. shows on the gauge, put the engine in forward gear, and open the regulator a little. The steam, going into the cold cylinders, will condense and the water may form a lock between piston and cover; give her a helping hand to clear it, but keep clear of the chimney. As soon as she got rid of the condensate water, and the cylinders are hot, she will try to scoot off, so mind she doesn’t get away and wreck herself. You can now couple on the flat car, take your seat, open the regulator and proceed to enjoy a real thrill!

Warning – take it a bit steady until you get used to the job; new beginners are usually so excited at being hauled by their first attempt, that they are apt to “go a bit loopy” and upset the whole apple-cart. Its excusable!! Anyway, once you are well away, the little tank engine will do her best to emulate the “Coronation Scot” or some other crack full-size train; the fact that she only has four little wheels to do it with won’t worry her in the least as she will spin them to such good purpose that main-line speed Is easily maintained. Look well after the fire and water; she will soon begin to blow of and that is the right time to put more coal on the fire. Never wait until the fire gets low before using the shovel, otherwise the steam pressure will fall before the fresh coal catches alight.

Have the pump by-pass open when starting, and take a look through the flap cover to see the water is squirting from the stem of the valve, an indication that the pump is working properly. As soon as the water drops below half a glass, close the by-pass valve. If the water rises rapidly, open the valve a little; it only requires practice to regulate the by-pass so that the water keeps fairly level all the time, about ¾ of a glass. If you want to operate the injector on the run, as on a full-sized engine, do so when there is a good fire, and she is either blowing off or just going to. Don’t put the injector on with a dull fire and low steam. “Juliet’s” boiler, properly fired will be the “boss of the cylinders” under any conditions of working; if she persists in blowing of all the time, open the Firehole door a little. Keep up a decent fire, keep up your water level, and “Juliet” will “keep on keeping on until the cows come home!”

When through, let the fire die down, dump the residue by pulling out the ashpan pin, and thoroughly cleaning off any ash and grit that may have fallen on the eccentrics and axleboxes – very important that! – then wipe down the boiler, tanks, etc with a soft rag or some waste. Never be tempted to put the engine away dirty.